The Lisbon Neighborhood Guide Locals Send Their Friends

Príncipe Real: design shops and garden squares

Ten minutes uphill from Bairro Alto, Príncipe Real is where Lisbon's design crowd spends its Saturdays. Embaixada, a 19th-century palace turned concept mall, is worth an hour alone. Around the central garden, A Cevicheria and Tapisco cover lunch, and Pavilhão Chinês is the strangest, most wonderful cocktail bar in the city.

Marvila: warehouses reborn

East of Santa Apolónia, Marvila was a working port until a decade ago. Now the warehouses hold Dois Corvos and Musa breweries, a growing art gallery scene (Underdogs, 3+1), and Fábrica Braço de Prata, a bookshop-bar-concert-hall hybrid open until 2 a.m. It's a fifteen-minute Bolt from the center and still feels like a secret.

Alcântara and the LX Factory

Under the 25 de Abril bridge, the LX Factory has become touristy but the surrounding blocks haven't. Rio Maravilha (rooftop bar with a Cristo Rei view), the Tuesday and Saturday antique market at Feira da Ladra's little sister, and Ler Devagar bookstore are all worth the tram ride.

Where to eat and where to sleep

For dinner, book Prado in Baixa (farm-to-table, no bad table), Boi-Cavalo in Alfama (natural wine, six-course tasting for €55), or O Velho Eurico for the classic tasca experience with a modern hand. To stay, Santiago de Alfama is the most romantic small hotel in the old town; Memmo Príncipe Real has the best pool and views for the money.